Four of the country’s most celebrated Michelin three-star chefs are joining the casual-dining trend with exciting new spots of their own.
The Bywater Los Gatos - David Kinch
The Three-Star Chef: David Kinch
Manresa, Los Gatos, Calif.
His New Casual Spot
The Bywater Los Gatos (thebywaterca.com), a “neighborhood joint” that opened in January serving the food of New Orleans, where Kinch started his career.
Comfort Factor
Tile floor, tin roof, ceiling fans, and bistro chairs—the whole Big Easy vibe.
Signature Dish
Oysters Rock-a-fella ($24), made with spinach-and-watercress puree, Herbsaint, and shellfish hollandaise. “It’s my favorite dish,” Kinch says. “It personifies the city.”
What We’re Drinking
A frozen daiquiri. With two kinds of rum, cane sugar, and fresh lime and pomegranate juices, it’s a serious cocktail that happens to be churned in a machine and served in a “go cup.”
Three-Star Holdover
Technique. Kinch’s fried chicken takes 2.5 days to make, including brining, air-drying, double coating, and frying in lard.
Roister - Grant Achatz
The Three-Star Chef: Grant Achatz
Alinea, Chicago
His New Casual Spot
Roister (roisterrestaurant.com), which Achatz calls a “loud, bold, delicious à la carte restaurant” in Chicago’s West Loop neighborhood, opened in March.
Comfort Factor
Loud indeed, and boisterous, with an open hearth dominating the space. Grab a seat at the large counter facing the kitchen.
Signature Dish
A 7-ounce A5 Japanese wagyu steak ($110), one of several dishes intended to feed the table: seared over fire, sliced, and draped with sea-urchin butter and togarashi spice.
What We’re Drinking
Evil Twin sour pale ale, a Seattle dry cider from Roister’s list of unusual wines, beers, and ciders from around the world.
Three-Star Holdover
The larder. Lobster, foie gras, A5 wagyu beef, oysters, truffles—it’s all here.
The Charter Oak - Christopher Kostow
The Three-Star Chef: Christopher Kostow
The Restaurant at Meadowood, Napa Valley
His New Casual Spot
The Charter Oak (thecharteroak.com), located in the formidable stone building in St. Helena, Calif., that was formerly Tra Vigne, is due to open by the end of the year.
Comfort Factor
With live-fire cooking, family-style service, and communal tables, Kostow plans to strip away the formal trappings of Meadowood for an “elemental” experience (at about a quarter of the price).
Signature Dish
Plucked from the restaurant’s 3-acre garden, tomatoes will be slowly smoked over the fire and served with house-made yogurt and salted plums.
What We’re Drinking
Wine, chosen from a list focused on Napa Valley. Kostow’s current favorite selection: Massican Sauvignon Blanc.
Three-Star Holdover
Custom ceramics. The Charter Oak’s dinnerware is by Napa ceramists Kelly Farley and Richard Carter, who created some of the artistic dinnerware at Meadowood.
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